Care and Raising of Oriental Firebellied Toads

The forest floor vivarium is a simple but versatile setup that will work well with a number of terrestrial species of frogs, Bombina orientalis included. This setup is designed to mimic a moist, mossy understory. One of the problems inherent to this design is that there is a tendency for the soil to become excessively waterlogged due to the daily mistings it is subject to. A good way to solve this problem would be through the use of a tank with a drilled bottom. A short length of tubing sealed to the hole with aquarium-safe silicon sealant could easily be directed into a water receptacle which could be emptied when necessary. It would probably be advisable to use a drilled tank only if the size of the tank is on the small side. In a large tank, the hole(s) could compromise the structural integrity of the bottom, causing a catastrophic failure; however, in a large tank, water accumulation is less of an issue.

If you are satisfied that this setup does indeed satisfy the needs of the animal you wish to cage in it, then you may begin to construct the habitat. You will require a tank, the bigger the better. Consider the guidelines outlined in the previous segment when determining the size of tank that is required. Place the tank on a base that will properly support the filled weight of the tank (which may be considerable). Fill the bottom of the tank to a depth of about 2 inches with a layer of 0.5 to 1 inch diameter gravel. This will serve as an area for excess water to drain into so that the soil is not saturated by waterings. An lighter-weight alternative to rocks would be open-ended 1.5" diameter PVC pipe cut into lengths to line the bottom. Next, add a 3 inch layer of sterile potting soil to the tank. Potting soil must not contain fertilizers or any other chemical such as a fungicide or weed-killing herbicide. Soils that contain manure or that contain a large proportion of pine bark are also unacceptable; manure can cause bacterial problems, and soft woods such as pine or cedar contain toxic phenols which can poison toads. A potting mix without fertilizer is ideal. Perlite and vermiculite are not thought to cause any problems. When adding soil, the addition of a few hills or a slope can add to the visual interest and natural look of the tank.

If live plants are to be added, plant them now. It may be preferable to leave them in pots to facilitate periodic tank breakdowns and cleanings. Because plants are commonly fertilized and sprayed with chemicals, it would be a good idea to remove them from their pots and gently knock off any soil attached to their roots. Then gently rinse off the entire plant (roots included) in the sink or with a hose to remove any sprayed-on chemicals. The plants can then be repotted or directly planted in the tank's soil. Pothos and phillodendron are excellent choices for the low-light, wet environment of a frog tank. Avoid plants requiring high light (unless you can provide it, obviously). African violets are delicate, but have the potential to do well. Ferns such as resurrection fern (Polypodium polypodioides)can be grown, although the author tends to kill them. Mosses such as java moss and pillow moss are also good, provided they get enough light. Certain species of Aralia can do well too. Pothos, however, will always retain its place as the perfect plant for a frog tank. It is very hardy, fast-growing, shade-tolerant, and will survive equally well in water or on land. As I am writing this, I have a pothos plant living quite contentedly at the bottom of a fish tank.

Once the soil is in place and the plants are in place, a partially buried clay pot or a coconut shell half with a door cut out can be placed in the tank to provide a hiding place. Next seat the water container in the tank so that it is buried in the soil for stability. Leave the container above the soil about 1 inch so that the sphagnum moss will clearance. I find that by placing large flat stones around the dish perimeter, I can reduce the amount of dirt and moss fibers tracked into the water. Water dishes should be several inches deep, and made of an easily cleaned material such as glass. If the toads have difficulty climbing out, add some large diameter stones to the dish. Oriental firebellied toads will like to sit on the stones half-submerged in the water during much of the day. Water the plants in the tank very lightly at this point. The next step will also introduce a fair amount of water, so a heavy watering would not be useful here.

Finally, take a clean bucket which has never been used with chemicals and fill it about half full with lukewarm water. Put on some clean rubber gloves and add a few handfuls of long-fiber sphagnum moss to the water, swirling it around to let it soak up the water. After the moss is saturated, remove small handfuls and squeeze the water into the bucket, leaving the moss damp. Place the moss flat in the tank and cover the tank floor, firming down the moss, but taking care not to excessively compress the soil. Be aware than if even one fiber of the moss gets into the water area, the moss will siphon out the water and can empty the water into the tank itself. A rock perimeter can help avoid this.

The addition of the moss signals the completion of tank construction. The walls may be cleaned when needed by taking clean paper towels wetted with distilled water and wiping the glass, using paper towels to dry it afterwards to avoid spotting. The water area should be changed every day or two as needed, using hot water and paper towels to wipe it clean, but never soap. A small plastic spray bottle (which has never been used for chemicals) may be used to lightly spray the tank with distilled water each day to maintain humidity and water the plants. Firebellied toads usually enjoy a light spray down. The moss should be kept moist, but care should be taken not to over-water the tank which will cause bacterial growth in saturated soil.

Sphagnum moss has been implicated as the carrier of a fungal infection called Sporotrichosis. The fungus supposedly enters through cuts in the skin when in contact with infected moss. I have never had trouble with this issue, and have handled the moss bare-handed extensively, and many gardeners around the country still use it. You may want to learn more about the topic so that you can decide what is right for you. Read more here or search online. As a substitute, live sheet moss could possibly be used.

Below is a series of photographs depicting the creation of a forest floor tank for a pair of toads I own. The smaller on is Bufo americanis (American Toad) and the larger, darker one is Bufo terrestris (Southern toad). This is an example of two species which are actually compatable, being from almost identical niches and being of sufficiently approximate size that they will not eat one another. Click on each picture to see a larger version.


Empty 29 gal. glass aquarium.	Two inches of large gravel added for drainage.	Four inches of sterile potting soil added.	Root-bound plant - more than ready to be planted.


Plants in place; rocks 'planted'; hiding pots buried.	Plants in place; water bowl seated; entire tank lightly watered.	Long-fiber sphagnum moss dampened and firmed into place.	Completed tank (walls not yet wiped clean)

		Stages of Forest Floor Vivarium Construction
American Toad (Bufo americanis) enjoying his new home.	Southern Toad (Bufo terrestris) checking out the water dish.	Stages of Forest Floor Vivarium Construction