Once your toads have metamorphosed into their juvenile form, you will need to remove them to a small tank in order to feed them. As juveniles, they will no longer be able to eat algae and plant matter from the water portion of their tanks. They now resemble their adult parents, not only in appearance, but also in dietary habits. They will require miniscule live foods, such as pinhead crickets and flightless fruit flies. You should place 15 or so prey animals per toadlet in the tank to increase the toadlets' chances in catching a meal. To additionally aid them in locating their prey, you should keep their tank rather spartan.

It is recommended that you use white paper towels as a substrate, both to facilitate cleaning, and to make it easy for the toadlets to see their prey. There is a proper and an improper way to make a paper towel substrate. The improper way is to simply stick a few sheets on the floor. That will only provide a good hiding place for the feeder insects, and can possibly result in a baby toad getting stuck underneath and starving or drying out.

The proper way to design a paper-substrate tank is to get a spray bottle and around two dozen strips of white paper towel that are smaller in both length and width than the tank is. Place a paper towel strip on the tank bottom and spray it enough to make it stick to the bottom. Continue placing strips evenly across the bottom, taking care to spray them with enough water to make them blend in with the rest of the strips. Do not allow them to lean against the wall, or prey will be able to climb underneath. You should end up with a soft, damp bottom. Place a low-lipped SHALLOW container of dechlorinated water in the tank. Additionally, put a few vines of pothos in for the toadlets to hide in. I would also recommend that you place a coconut hut in the tank. If you keep large numbers of prey insects in the tank, you should place a small container of gut-loading food for the crickets to eat, lest they turn on your toadlets.

When the paper towels get soiled, or the plants die, replace them. Toadlets should be kept on a day length of around 10-11 hours of light and 12-13 of darkness. Temperatures should be in the upper 70's Fahrenheit. Be sure to cover the tank securely with a screen lid in order to avoid escapes - and believe me, they're good at it. Toadlets can easily climb glass. You may wish to place a small, flat stone or two in the water to aid the toads in climbing out. Visual blocks around the sides of the cage may help lower stress. Don't forget to mist the enclosure daily. Toadlets are prone to dehydration.

Once the toadlets begin to get fairly skilled at catching prey, you will be able to move them into a modified forest-floor setup. You must make a few modifications to the design, however, to adjust to the toadlets' tiny size. Your water dish can be no more than a half inch deep, and it must be sunk into the ground up to its lip. You should place a number of small, flat stones in the water that come up to just barely under the surface. The toadlets will crawl up on these and soak in the water. Since you have such a small amount of water, you will need to change it daily to avoid the buildup of contaminants. For lighting and heating, follow the same guidelines as set out for the adults, with the exclusion of the winter cooling period.

For the first few months, you will need to remove the toadlets to a small container for feeding - at least until the feeder insects they eat are big enough not to be immediately lost in the moss. Once they are capable of eating 1/8-1/4" crickets, you may begin feeding them in their tank. When you begin this new practice, you must take care to watch their appearance; if they grow weak or thin, they are not yet able to catch their own prey in their environment and should be put back on their former feeding routine for another month or so. If, however, they are plump and lively, then you can pat yourself on the back - you've just set another group of firebellied toads on the road to adulthood.